After a quick flight and a treacherous drive across the countryside of Crete, I was walking down the roughly cobbled inner streets of old town Chania to the edge of the harbour. The dark grey stones were smooth from legions of tourists stampeding over them in search of a beachfront selfie. In the distance I could hear the sounds of poor buskers and blabbering tourists. The languages you’ll notice span from the local Greek to foreign tongues like Danish and French. During the high seasons in Chania, which run from early June to late August, visitors will fill every corner of the Old Town. Getting in early in the summer can ease the tension of the peak.
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| The Greek Flag rising above an old fortress wall in town |
If you can find a little nook away from the crowds, street food in Chania is exquisite. Local cuisine is often melded with foreign dishes to great success. I frequented a bistro with freshly grilled meats slathered in a delicious honey mustard, all wrapped in a traditional pita. In Chania, the classical restaurants are worth a visit as well. Avoiding the tourist traps on the harbor can net you a stunning fish dinner, made fresh from the catches of the day. If you want to try something inspired by the other cultures in Crete’s past, head over to “The Well of the Turk” for some of the best cuisine on the island.
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| A beautiful fish dinner we had, away from the harbour |
I visited as many of the beaches on the north coast of the island as I could. Most had the classic atmosphere of an overdeveloped greek beach. Cheap prices accompanied by loud music and ice cream stands. A few beaches stood out: Elafonissi, with its stunning pink sand and warm lagoon waters, is worth the ride; Phalasarna, a little more pricey but truly a delight to visit. The beach fronts are certainly where you should spend most of your vacation, but this mountainous island also offers some of the best hiking in the mediterranean.
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| The famous lighthouse of Chania |
There I was on my way to the famous scar of the island: The Samorian Gorge. A 17km long gash across the mountainous landscape, renowned for bringing hikers to their knees with steep switchbacks and treacherous heat. I began the uneasy descent to the bottom of the gorge; my hamstrings crying out loud for dear life and salvation by the lord. Every time I got around one bend, I saw another stretch of powdery gray stones ahead. I turn the next corner and then… more rocks. As I trudged along, a cheery hiker slid right past me with the energy of a young puppy. Clearly there was something wrong with his head. How could anyone keep up a smile in these conditions?
“On your left!”
Another obnoxious hiker ran past. I had half the mind to beat in the head of the next person who came by. Those heavy rocks might do a good job. Fortunately, the stunning views that greeted me when I reached the bottom soothed my murderous intent.
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| The beautiful view of the gorge |
The Samoria hike is the pinnacle of every trip to Crete and a must do for the able bodied. Bring plenty of water, start early, and cover yourself in sunscreen to avoid the scorching greek sun. The sensation of conquest is the best souvenir you could ever bring back.
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| A Cretan cat taking his afternoon nap |
